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Jacquard is a popular name for figured woven fabrics with complicated and curvy designs. They do not have characteristics that would define them by a more specific name, such as brocade, damask, or tapestry. Jacquard fabrics with a complex curved design on the background of a recognizable simple mat erial such as taffeta may have the term "figured" added to the name of the ground fabric ("figured taffeta"). Otherwise, an intricately figured woven fabric that does not show characteristics which would earn one of the "big names" such as brocade is called simply a "jacquard". Jacquard is also a method of weaving to allow the most intricate interlacing of warp and weft yarns to be accomplished automatically. Most woven patterns are formed by raising various groups of warp yarns as the weft is inserted; each group of warp yarns is lifted on a frame called a harness. The simplest (plain) weave requires only two harnesses, one to lift each odd-numbered warp, one for each even-numbered warp, then the interlacing repeats. Jacquard designs are most often elaborate and striking, so many are not fabrics that form a quiet background! They are used in all weights, fiber contents, and interiors applications, from the sheerest materials to carpets.
Jacquard s original method uses cards in which a hole can be punched in any row where a warp yarn should be raised. Any number of rows can be built up on cards laced together, so the repeat of pattern can be any size. Interestingly, this method of "binary control" - in which a hole is either present or not - formed the basis of modern telephone and computer technology. It is thus not surprising that jacquard weaving adapts perfectly to electronic control. Also, anyone who has tried to create a curve in a computer graphic knows how many rows it takes to make a smooth curve - a problem exactly like that of changing interlacing of warp and weft over many rows to get a smooth curve in even a small woven design.
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